China Buffet King

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Glaswegians have a bit of a love affair with all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets. Although some speak of such establishments with disdain and despair, many – indeed, seemingly most – others appear to have an endless appetite for the concept (and the food). China Buffet King is the city's best-known purveyor, with three branches located near central shopping and drinking routes, all as busy as any of their rivals. To begin any foray, you might have some thick chicken and sweetcorn soup or head straight for the array of appetisers. Meats fare better under the steam-table lamps than the likes of prawn toast or mini spring rolls. Spare ribs – big, tender and coated in a mild barbecue sauce – stand out. From the main course selections, salt and chilli shrimp comes in a tempura-style batter that's nice and chewy. There's not much of a kick, but the kitchen is playing it safe. Familiar offerings such as lemon chicken or beef in black bean sauce are more successful than, say, green-lipped mussels that don't really seem to belong on a buffet cart. And it's worth getting on to the rice or noodle options just after their trays have been replenished. Finally, there's a selection of salads and fresh fruit, as well as steak pie, mini-pizzas and chips for the children, the childish or the 'all-Chinesed-out'.

• High point: Ultra-prompt staff
• Low point: Trays can get dried up beneath the lights