North of Bondi
- Food served: Mon–Fri noon–10.30pm; Sat–Sun 10.30am–10pm
- Number of wines sold by the glass: Four
- Also offers: Gluten-free options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Takeaway, Outdoor tables (smokers welcome)
- Music on stereo: Highly eclectic: Rolling Stones, jazz, singer-songwriters
- Capacity: 80
- Largest group: 80
- Open since: 2008
- Average price 2 courses:
£10 (lunch)
£15 (evening meal) - House wine: £13.95 per bottle
This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.
North of Bondi, which opened in March 2008 in the former Baby Grand, appears to be more than a faddish stab at Asian fusion. Chef-proprietor Nik Biok, once of Bar Soba, spent much of his youth in southeast Asia and this is his attempt to recreate the pungency and vitality of meals of the region. The menu is characterised by crisp, clean flavours unblighted by excess chilli or oil, and entirely free of MSG. There is integrity, too, in the approach to fish: it appears only on the specials board, and if there's nothing worth bringing back from the market it doesn't feature at all. Skewers packed with pork satay balance a fresh lime-leaf infusion with a delicately sticky glaze; sweet ginger plums provide optional extra zing. Huge flying saucer-like al dente ravioli of lobster competes with feisty, creamy curry leaf coconut sauce. Takeaways in New York-style cardboard boxes burst with fresh ingredients – an appealing alternative to the Friday night ritual of tin foil and luminescent curry. An exciting and extensive weekend brunch menu sees blueberry pancakes and smoked salmon brioche jostle alongside pan-Asian favourites.
- High point: Skilled use of a huge range of ingredients
- Low point: Tom yum soup is an atypically oily option
Comments
- 1. SuziQ, Glasgow – 9 October 2008, 1:27pm
Report -
Took my husband for a birthday meal on 04/10/08 & it was fantastic! Food was delicious - we highly recommend the spring rolls (very spicy sauce), vietnamese chicken satay (really peanuty), beef curry (tender beef, fresh chillies & not oo hot) and the side order of Malaysian roti bread (crispy & fresh). The staff were lovely too - friendly & efficient. And they had 3 types of gin available too!
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