Lamora

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

When it opened in late 2007, Lamora's bright white décor was minimal in the extreme. It's atypical and refreshing for an Italian restaurant, so we hope that anticipated refurbishments in 2008 do not compromise its novelty. Father and son Silvano and Luciano Mora have more than 30 years' experience at essentially every level of trattoria and ristorante in Scotland, and their establishment represents high standards of dining at eminently reasonable prices. Seared carpaccio is succulent yet sharp, the peppery beef medallions lightly flecked in a mustard dressing, while a goat's cheese salad rejects the parsimony that usually accompanies this starter for a liberal sprinkling of creamy cubes on a bed of roasted vegetables, olives and tomatoes. Aromatic Tuscan sausage gives a rough, grainy texture to a densely layered, herby lasagne, though the side of garlic toast is rather too strong. Arriving in a delicate, mildly spicy concassé of roughly chopped tomato with chilli, the lobster ravioli is warmingly moreish, with home-made parcels of pasta. Service is amenable, though later in the evening seems perhaps a little overstretched. The set-price lunch menu is outstanding value for food of this quality, as is the £10.95 early dining deal, from 5–8pm Monday to Thursday and 5–7pm Friday and Saturday.

• High point: Excellent value for money
• Low point: Slightly muted atmosphere