Rumours Kopitiam

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

From an elevated first-floor site at the junction of Bath Street and West Nile Street, the canteen tables and day-glo specials signs of Rumours give a real sense of a Malaysian street cafe. Fresh-cut chillies and fragrant coriander enhance the flavours of the dishes on offer. Mixed platters such as Hawkers rice (rice with choice of chicken, beef or vegetables with traditional Malay accompaniments of dried fish and pastries) add to the sense of a market cafe. Starters include a fabulous roti canai, a deliciously light round of savoury pastry which comes with a warming curry sauce, and a tangy Thai style salad with crunchy vegetables and pungent fish sauce or perhaps the more unusual prawn meat with sugar cane. Fried soft shell crabs in a punchy salt and chilli topping are a must for seafood lovers (and without the mess) as are the whole steamed fishes that with rice easily serve two. The specials board might include such daily delights as slow braised pork belly with tofu where even the tofu takes on a rich meatiness. Dessert choices are limited but the speciality pearl bubble teas (fresh flavoured milkshake drinks with sago) give a worthy sweet finish to a meal. Service is functional and friendly with a family feel. The varied clientele is attracted by the central location and the ultra fresh outputs of the kitchen and includes a generous representation of people who can order in the right language.

• High point: Generous portions of ultra fresh authenticity
• Low point: Cafe feel means you might not linger over a whole evening