Itihaas

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

A mere five months old at time of going to press, Itihaas (meaning 'history') is obviously doing great business with the residents of Dalkeith. Even on a midweek evening, this clean and brightly modern corner premises in the very heart of the town is something close to full. You can't grudge the place its success; owner Matin Khan has instilled a culture of smiling good service among his staff, and the menu is agreeably extensive. Starters, including various richly marinated kebabs, a thickly tomato-sauced prawn purée amidst a large chapatti, and chana on puri (chick peas cooked in herbs) are served on fancy compartmentalised plates – an affectation, but not at odds with the sharply up-to-date feel of the restaurant. Variously (and very reasonably) priced thali set lunches are a good reason to visit during the day, although perhaps a little finesse is required for what are essentially well-realised à la carte mains. The fish in the salmon ka tukrah's finely flavoured coriander and mustard sauce is a little tough, while the sauce of the soft, creamy chicken tikka massala is a bit too sweet. But these are minor comments, and this is still a stand-out restaurant for its location.

• High point: A crisp and welcoming new restaurant that's better than many of Edinburgh's Indian establishments
• Low point: One or two dishes need a little fine-tuning