Cail Bruich

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Built in the 1870s to provide homes for orphaned children, and currently the residence of one of Scotland's largest care charities, Quarriers village in Inverclyde, about two miles west of Bridge of Weir, might seem an unlikely locale to tempt aspiring restaurateurs. But it is here that, in November 2006, in the oldest building in the village, brothers Chris and Paul Charalambous opened this upmarket bistro serving well-cooked contemporary Scottish fare. Starters such as goat's cheese tart or Stornoway black pudding are unlikely to set the pulse racing, but each of the dishes exhibits an appreciation for good, predominantly locally sourced ingredients, as well as a flair for presentation. The duck liver and cognac pâté with plum chutney is excellent, though the accompanying pain d'epices is perhaps too heavy. Among the main courses, roasted venison with beetroot and a richly spiced red cabbage cleverly combines contrasting flavours, while there can be few better ways to end an evening than with a cardamom infused crème brûlée. Set-price lunches operate on Sundays only at £12.95 for two courses, and on Wednesday and Thursday night there's a set-price dinner, which costs the same. As of April 2008, the brothers will also be operating from a sister restaurant (complete with in-house butcher) in Glasgow's West End at 725 Great Western Road.

• High point: Excellent Sunday lunch
• Low point: Not much for vegetarians