La Bavarde

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It's never the easiest thing to takeover a 30-year local favourite. But the team behind Mulberry’s (see Scottish) is spring-cleaning this formerly Franco/Italian-oriented nook of Bearsden Cross to very popular effect with a cheery, rustic-style bistro. Inside, original dark wood floors and fittings contrast with whitewashed walls that feature paintings by local artists. While tables of talkative pensioners and older couples making the most of an empty nest may be indicative of this part of town, La Bavarde ('the chatty woman', fittingly enough) hopes gradually to attract younger custom with a menu that tweaks traditional fare with a dash of French flair. Thick-cut bacon and pickled beetroot, in a starter salad of subtly dressed leaves and cherry tomatoes, makes for a great combination, as does the just-sour-enough rollmop herring and creamy potato salad. A cylindrical wedge of crunchily breaded fish-cake, featuring salmon flakes and minced smoked mackerel, is presented in a pool of simple tomato sauce. It's a deceptively hefty main course, while the fat venison sausages, though not overpoweringly gamey, are just plain hefty (but tasty). This theme continues with an almost indecent slab of white chocolate cheesecake with a firm, nutty biscuit base and a hint of lime.

• High point: Well-judged, friendly service
• Low point: Les bavardes de Bearsden