Striped Bass

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The first of several intended to be rolled out, Striped Bass is the latest operation from Ian Fleming, who was responsible for reviving the Buttery in the 1990s. With this operation he weds a transparent policy of sourcing fish to a rather slick bar/bistro with dark walls and timber partitions, in Glasgow's most upscale shopping mall. The marriage seems to work. Purists will argue about the true sustainability of farmed fish (organic or not) but Striped Bass cannot be faulted for its honesty. In addition to an evening à la carte selection, tapas-sized dishes are served through the day, whether seared west coast ling or a smoked fish chowder. Night-time options are bolstered by a special or two, such as lobster served on the half shell with a surprisingly delicate caviar and truffle sauce. A starter of seared langoustines comes in a warm garlic-infused melted butter and white wine broth (which begs for a bit of bread on the side to soak up the juices) with diced potatoes and tomatoes. The menu also throws up some welcome surprises, such as razor clams or a tronçon of turbot – on the bone, just barely cooked – in a recipe deploying red wine. Puddings favour North American, with a sweet pecan pie and a well-executed Brooklyn-style baked cheesecake.

• High point: Sincere sourcing policy
• Low point: Noise from mall's competing soundtracks

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