Bolshie

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With its lipstick-red exterior, Bolshie sits on a residential street near Glasgow University. Inside, it could just about be the hip tenement living room of an art and design student. Paper lampshades, pop art and patterned lino suggest an affection for Andy Warhol. Half the space is used to sell organic clothes and, in the café corner, three small tables and a cane sofa sit by a chill cabinet, while a classy wooden counter top (with red bar chairs) brings to mind a bespoke kitchen. It's a disarmingly intimate space and owner Carolyn Manson greets every customer, happily chatting about the menu. Everything in the shop and café is organic or Fairtrade. This commitment to ethical sourcing is one-woman community cafédom at its earnest best. The menu is admittedly limited, with select treats imported from favourite suppliers. Naked Soup's Italian pea and basil soup has an amazing mushy flavour and the bread from Trusty Crust is beautifully soft. A thick wedge of ginger cake has luxurious taste and texture. The coffee (from Tapa) is a special Bolshie blend, and selling individual chocolates (including vegan options) for 10p is inspired. New cycle racks join outdoor seating and potted plants in 2008. Dedicated care is taken at every stage to enhance the Bolshie environment.

• High point: Committed ethical sourcing
• Low point: Not for the inhibited: the next table can hear every word