Cabbages & Kings

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Cabbages & Kings is one of the newest additions to Byres Road. The décor is monochrome, and – with the exception of one striking black and white image – its walls are unadorned (at least when we visited in its early days). In contrast to the minimalism of the interior, a plate of sumptuously iced cherry and chocolate cupcakes flaunt themselves in the window. They taste as good as they look – light and fluffy sponge is topped with a rich swirl of butter icing mixed through with real cherries. Their chocolate counterparts sport a truffle on top. On the savoury front, the café offers a choice of soups (vegetarian and a meat or fish version), tarts and sandwiches. An asparagus, roast pepper and courgette tart is topped with nutty-tasting Irish gubeen cheese and comes with a bean salad (plus a generous helping of fat olives). The selection of sandwiches is small, but all are made from doorstop slices of bread and are packed with fillings. Cheese, vegetable and mixed platters are also available, while salads include a warm smoked mackerel Niçoise or chorizo with olives, beetroot and sun-blush tomatoes.

• High point: The cherry cupcakes
• Low point: Rather unadorned décor