110 Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It takes a while for the senses to recover from walking through Circus Casino, which is invariably packed to the rafters with punters playing slot machines or laying gambling chips next to roulette wheels. The glitzy, open plan betting area – occupied until recently by a vibrant city nightclub – is like a little slice of Las Vegas. While foodies of a delicate disposition may be put off by the sheer garishness and decadence of the venue that hosts 110 Restaurant, they won't find a lack of well considered options across the three impressive menus. The grill, which is open till the small hours, delivers top of the market steaks and cuts, but it's the à la carte and Jean Christophe Novelli designer menus that deliver outstanding cuisine. There's a sensational burst of piquancy in the pink peppercorn and juniper jus, which comes drizzled over rare loin of venison. Meanwhile, Beaufort melted on top of a tranche of tender beef fillet is a divine mix of tangy cheese and succulent flesh. You have to be a member just to get past the foyer, but the fine dining in unusual surroundings makes joining up worth considering.

• High point: High calibre food in a lively setting
• Low point: Not for those seeking a refined environment