Sizzling Scot Steakhouse & Grill

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Many Scottish restaurants refer to their culinary roots rather obliquely, their menus using phrases such as 'locally sourced ingredients'. Sizzling Scot, by contrast, is so very Scottish that it feels as though they would have used tartan paint on the walls were it available. As well the decorations having a pretty dominant Caledonian theme, both the menu and a small greetings card on the table sing the praises of local meat, fish, fruit and veg. In fact, this policy is also proudly trumpeted in the restaurant's own 'product information guide', which exhaustively details the origins of all the food. While all this could have resulted in a tartan overload, it's to owner John Edmund's credit that the effect is actually rather more endearing than overwhelming. So, what's the food like? Well, it's largely of the comfort variety: steaks, burgers, sausages and the like, but none the worse for that. Order an Aberdeen Angus beef burger and you will barely be able to see your dining partner over the teetering mound of char-grilled meat and crisp chips. By contrast, the Aberdeen Angus sirloin steak is a less precipitous dish, but still a healthy size, and cooked to perfection.

• High point: Incredibly friendly welcome and service
• Low point: The décor that isn't Scottish is a bit school canteen

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