Tang's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

As a head chef in London, Qun Tang could boast the likes of Jonathan Ross among his regulars. Now relocated north, and settled into an airy, pleasant space in the heart of Edinburgh, Tang and his Japanese wife Yoshiko Nakano are hoping to win over the capital's diners too. It was the miso black cod that hooked Ross, and it's easy to see why: served on a bamboo leaf, the yielding moistness of the grilled fish is beautifully accented by a sweet miso sauce. The predominantly Japanese menu has a pan-Asian breadth that also includes Thai and Chinese dishes, from green curry to stir-fries. They're not content with just ticking off the standard sushi/sashimi staples, so the choices here are intriguingly diverse: try the Samurai bento, with its petite portions of fried noodles, gyoza dumplings and three kinds of sushi arrayed in a lacquered box. Veggies too are spoiled for choice, with many dishes offered with vegetable or tofu options. The attention to detail is carried through to the end, with traditional Japanese desserts. The portions may sometimes be modest and the prices occasionally a little high, but the quality of the cooking is perfectly pitched. Tang's is a quiet wee gem.

• High point: That wonderful miso fish
• Low point: Still settling in, so can sometimes lack atmosphere