Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Since taking over the venerable Buttery, owner Ryan James seems to have safely ensconced the Two Fat Ladies philosophy amid a historic and salubrious setting. The place feels less nicotine-stained and cluttered, but it still has classy touches from the front bar and lounge to the rear dining space, with its mahogany panelling and plump roses on each starched linen table. Like Rogano, it's aiming at the celebratory end of the market and hitting the mark with subdued birthday parties, tender anniversaries and other family occasions. The menu features many of the same raw ingredients of the other Two Fat Ladies (see above), whether monkfish or king prawns. But the quotient of sea-free options is slightly higher, such as a main course of Gressingham duck breast. But fish remains central. Flaky hot-smoked salmon from Ullapool is well complemented by tangy beetroot and baby caper pickle. Whole lemon sole meuniere is expertly cooked, with rich black butter highlights. Sotto voce 'wows' generally greet the presentation of the TFL grand dessert, a selection of all the puddings such as a refreshing passion fruit tart. Like the other outlets, the place scores price-wise too. For example, a bottle of muscadet that the competition sells for up to £25 is £15 here.

• High point: Comfortably classy
• Low point: Slightly dry chocolate sponge