Khanz

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Where once the greasy spoon institution Bronx sat looking down Leith Walk from the London Road roundabout is, after an interim period as Kebabish Original, now Khanz, an Indian restaurant with the catchline 'the thrill of the grill'. It has maintained the diner atmosphere, with glass tables, red plastic seats and rows of tables propped up against large windows. Glass cabinet displays, decorated with bundles of green peppers and skewers of marinated raw meat, leave you with a few memories of post-pub takeaway dining, but the kebabs are a notch or two above that standard. Fragrant blasts of cumin in the sheek lamb kebabs bring a warm glow to the palate, and there's a classic barbecued flavour to the chicken wami. Main courses on a menu just being introduced as this guide went to press include a series of chef's specials, featuring fish dishes such as sea bass machli, in which the whole fish is marinated overnight, though there are also pizzas from a log-fired oven and a pretty wide range of vegetarian options. The opening hours and prominent location make it a popular option for late-night meals, and there's an extensive selection of desserts.

• High point: Charred meat reminiscent of street food
• Low point: Lots of hard, noisy surfaces