Café Salma

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Since opening in 2007, the charming and informal Café Salma has quickly gained a loyal custom – and a reputation that belies its youth. The bright interior's idiosyncratic décor, wall-mounted television and busy open kitchen give the place an authentic feel. It's the kind of place you might chance upon on the subcontinent itself, and the proprietor Hassan Melloul is disarmingly friendly. The spirit of authenticity extends to the Lahori-inspired food (as well as the no-alcohol policy). Among the starters, the aubergine pakoras are wonderfully light and sweet, while tender grilled lamb chops exude a spicy, cumin flavour. From the main courses, Afghan biryani combines lamb, cardamom and basmati rice with dried fruits and nuts; an assortment of sweet and savoury tastes enhanced by the accompanying tomato and vegetable purée. The kofta bhoona is an especially good dish, its meatballs maintaining a firm but moist consistency, while a liberal use of ginger, coriander and fenugreek contributes to a well-balanced dish. A wide range of kebabs, pizzas and burgers points to Salma's other role as a local takeaway. Keep an eye open for a Moroccan-influenced restaurant opening in the space downstairs.

• High point: Excellent value for money
• Low point: Fills up quickly at lunchtime