Roseleaf Bar Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Leith's Roseleaf falls into that exclusive category of great new pubs you almost don't want to recommend because large crowds might spoil what makes them so enjoyable in the first place. The former old man's boozer was overhauled, filled with flea market furniture, mismatched chintzy crockery and brass animals, and relaunched in July 2007. The pub's alcoholic tea parties (featuring cocktails in china teapots) have been drawing steady crowds, while the food, which is simple, comforting and fresh rather than pretentious or reheated, is very good too. Steak burgers are cooked to order, a nibbles platter is piled high with cheese, deli meats and home-made dips, and there are daily desserts such as spiced blueberry tart with a crumbly ginger biscuit base. All-day brunches, sandwiches and pasta or veggie specials are served until 10pm, after which a snack menu of pâté and toast, popcorn, nachos or cheese and oatcakes is available until closing time. As well as the long list of cocktails (or 'pot-tails' and 'pot toddies' as they're known here), Roseleaf also serves sparkling wines by the glass, freshly squeezed fruit juices – which, like the coffees can be served with an optional shot of alcohol – and several black or herbal teas.

• High point: Tastefully mismatched décor and warm staff await
• Low point: Last orders