Drill Hall Arts Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

You can't create on an empty stomach and, at this little kitchen, a stone's throw from Leith Walk, you don't have to. The imposing size of the Drill Hall is dissected by movable screens to create a flexible dining space surrounded by the current art exhibition and the venue's regularly scheduled classes and events, giving a hub-like feel to the café. 'The Sound of Muesli', an evocatively titled monthly brunch and live music session, makes the most of the dual draw of hot food and cool entertainment. This community atmosphere is underscored by the hand-written specials board, approachable staff and number of children underfoot, while the comfort food menu has a home-spun charm. Bangers and mash are mountainous and hearty restorative, cooked breakfasts are no-fuss hangover cures and the soups brim with nutrition. A latte is very well formed and on the strong side. Vegetarians fare very well and everything is cooked fresh from local, ethically-sourced, organic foodstuffs, including bread from the Manna House [see Cafés] and sausages from Crombies. With an emphasis on home cooking and unfeasibly low prices, the dishes aren't works of art, but they may provide the sustenance to enable you to create one.

• High point: The art installations
• Low point: The tables need a wipe