Grianach

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Grianach means 'sunny' in Gaelic and the theme carries through this neighbourhood café, from the seasonal affective disorder light therapy boxes on each table to the summery pop on the stereo. The menu offers soups, sandwiches, baked potatoes, salads and a decent selection of home baking, with daily specials listed on a chalkboard. Huge bowls of piping hot leek and potato broth deliver nourishing goodness with a peppery kick. A special of broccoli and salmon quiche is comforting, arriving with a tangle of baby leaves and cherry tomato quarters in a tangy balsamic and mustard dressing. A bagel with chorizo, salami, gherkins, tomato and mustard works surprisingly well, the assertiveness of the meat and pickle calmed by the wholegrain bagel. The sweet-toothed are well served, with a range of golden flapjacks, well-risen fruit scones, empire biscuits or generously iced and decorated cupcakes on offer. Free wi-fi is a bonus. Cheerful staff, good solid home cooking and those mood-enhancing light boxes keep Grianach on the sunny side of the street.

• High point: Piles of home baking
• Low point: Other options a bit limited

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