Grianach

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Grianach is under new ownership, but this little café still stands up to its Gaelic name meaning ‘sunny, bright and airy’. Its new owners are as passionate about good quality ingredients as they are about where they come from. Their ham is kettle-steamed, their tuna ethically sourced and their bacon from Cranston, the local butchers. The interior is small and intimate, but look up to the listed Alexander 'Greek' Thompson ceiling for a sense of perspective, switch on the SAD lamp to blast away the winter blues and open the paper with your morning coffee. For lunch the generous portion of wholesome home-made spicy carrot and parsnip soup is well accompanied by one of the door-stopper chorizo honey and mozzarella cheese ciabattas. Their scones are freshly baked everyday and other home-made treats include fairy cakes for the kids and a spongy chocolate cake reminiscent of how granny used to make it. Popular with young and old alike, Elvis Presley’s hot peanut butter and banana sandwich has just graduated from the specials board to the permanent menu.

• High point: Nostalgia-infused chocolate sponge cake with blueberry jam
• Low point: Décor lacks a sense of personality