Pintxo

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Basque word pintxo (pronounced 'pincho') refers to the bite-sized snacks Spaniards typically consume during leisurely bar crawls. Here in less-than-sunny Partick, you can enjoy just such a little mouthful for £1 at the bar, but with nowhere similar nearby to wander to, you should probably take a seat and order something more substantial. Pintxo offers an excellent choice of more than 30 tapas dishes priced from £2.50 (a bowl of olives) to just under £6 (a generous ración of paella, or some juicy scallops with chorizo). Despite the name – and the colours of the Basque flag in the restaurant's logo – the food isn't limited to that region; there are good dishes from Catalonia (such as a rich pasta dish with chorizo and jamón), Rioja (slow cooked lamb with red peppers in wine) and southern Spain (gazpacho, pork skewers, spinach with chickpeas). There are also some national favourites, such as tortilla and patatas bravas, the latter served with an unusually good, smoky, pimentón sauce. Pintxo is a friendly, welcoming little space with only 40 covers. The smart décor is cooler than you might expect in a suburban location, and the drinks list includes some rare and exciting wines, authentic Asturian cider and a good choice of beers, spirits and even mineral waters from Spain. Deservedly, it's often packed, so booking is recommended.

• High point: Generous helpings of well-made food
• Low point: Often hard to get a table