Gabbro

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Gabbro is not just another hotel restaurant – it is instantly clear on arrival that this place aspires to greater things. The entrance can feel a little drab, but once you're inside the restaurant, you're in for a proper warm welcome and slick service. A lounge area to the rear of the room provides a relaxing place to wind down, while the comfy banquettes and fresh flowers at the front make for a stylish environment in which to dine. The menu is a pleasant surprise too, offering quality seasonal produce with some imaginative touches. A brie and apple filo parcel makes for a filling starter, perhaps slightly heavy on the pastry but tasty nonetheless. For a decadent main course, try the roast Barbary duck breast with crisp Parma ham and a black pudding rosti, while a salmon and sole en croute with braised fennel is a lighter option. Desserts sound good on paper but are slightly let down in execution, with a raspberry and white chocolate brûlée disappointingly on the undercooked side. Good value wine by the glass and a wonderful walled garden out back are two great reasons to keep Gabbro in mind, especially on a sunny summer day.

• High point: Walled garden just perfect for lazy sunny afternoons
• Low point: Rather drab entrance

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