China Blue

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Although it's become a bit of a cliché to say a Chinese restaurant is worthwhile purely because it's frequented by members of the local Chinese community, what's really striking about this place is how homely it feels. There are families next to couples, and big groups eating multi-course banquets next to solo diners in for a quick bite. Paper tablecloths are whisked off after each sitting. This is a restaurant completely without pretence – some slightly bizarre abstract watercolours hang from the walls – and it's excellent. A refreshing, tomato-based broth around octopus, scallops and flaky white fish (with a fiery growl right at the end) is one of many starters that looks to the sea. But dishes from dry land also impress, such as a mixed platter of gamey chicken wings, tender ribs and prawn toast that actually tastes of shrimp (which is not that common). Spicy recipes that hold their flavour are a trait, as in a Malaysian curried pork that is creamy and ever so slightly fruity. Elsewhere, Szechuan scallops are plentiful – comfortably more than ten are served – in a complex blend of garlic and sesame, chilli and black vinegar that still allows the light flavour of the shellfish to come through. 'One of Glasgow's best kept secrets' is another cliché. Then again, clichés become clichés for a reason.

• High point: Possibly Glasgow's most authentic Chinese restaurant
• Low point: Easy to walk by