Fifi and Ally

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Spawned from the success of the original Princes Square emporium/café, the new Fifi and Ally sits squarely in the city's financial district, so polished even in its early days that it seems to have sprung up fully formed. The design-led monochromatic interior feels like a boudoir, with black gossamer lampshades, ornate mirrors, candle-lit chandeliers and wallpaper depicting semi-clad ladies in 'cirque de soleil' poses. As a destination venue it offers a brasserie sufficiently moody to satisfy Glasgow's great and gorgeous, while the white glossy tables are spaced well enough apart to keep any insider information just between friends. Additionally, the venture has an award-winning shop and takeaway café. The food lives up to the hype with plenty of organic and fresh ingredients offered for brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and late suppers. The French onion soup with gruyère croutons is as dark and alluring as the surroundings. It provides a great preamble to a hearty sandwich brimming with meaty crayfish tails and sour cream mayo. The ideal-for-sharing Moroccan platter overflows with babaganoush, tabbouleh and hummus, while a classic pear and rocket salad comes with the softest creamy gorgonzola. Desserts are somewhat less noteworthy, with an ordinary meringue easily upstaged by Mariebelle hot chocolate. The service, if a slightly scattered at times, remains sweet and cheerful. This is an altogether beautiful place.

• High point: Fantastic wine by the glass
• Low point: Unisex toilets your mum will hate (Wellington St)