One Ten

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Opened in 2007 as part of the £10m refurbishment of the Marks hotel (previously Bewley's), One Ten is among the newest additions to Bath Street's busy upmarket eating and drinking scene. Between the low lighting, wall-to-wall carpets and red upholstered chairs, the place has a definite sense of quiet class about it. The pedigree of head chef Derek Blair (previously of Nairn's, the Hallion and St Andrew's Old Course) is considerable. Salads – which can be served as starters or main courses – include warm smoked salmon in citrus, and a wonderfully unpretentious mix of diced Stornoway black pudding, smoked bacon and red lettuce leaves, topped with a free-range poached egg and a drizzle of deliciously tangy aged balsamic dressing. Most mains are of the char-grilled variety: halibut, chicken, steak or pork chops are just a sample. The neatly carved portions seem slightly stingy but they come with a vegetable side serving, while a selection of other extras – such as chips, potatoes or shallots – can be added at £2 a hit. Try the fresh, flaky caramel apple pie for dessert.

• High point: Desserts to die for
• Low point: Less than generous portions