Bibi's Cantina

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Bibi's Cantina is a recent but welcome arrival on the restaurant scene. It's like stepping into someone's living room – you'll find it has a welcoming and homely vibe with subtle touches of Latin American design in the décor. A few kitsch Mexican posters adorn the walls while the multi-coloured tiling by local ceramics studio Deepfired is used with admirable restraint. The pretty little menus offer more than just the bog-standard Mexican fare. For instance, a sweetcorn fritter with bacon and guacamole has a reassuringly home-made character. The molcajete stew is a combination of tender beef, chicken and bacon in a mild paprika-flavoured gravy. With potatoes and onion, it is a meal in one bowl, but comes with bread for mopping up the juices. Pretty much all the food is clearly made to order and, while it's not exactly haute cuisine, it all tastes fresh, as if prepared with attention to detail and presentation. Bibi's has a real neighbourhood feel and its low-key ethos – combined with attentive but informal service – is a welcome antidote to the stereotypical noisy, brash 'themed' Mexican restaurant.

• High point: Most beautiful bathrooms in the world – seriously
• Low point: A wee bit out of the way