Bibi's Cantina

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

This cosy little restaurant tries its best to make you feel like you’ve stepped off Dumbarton Road into Latin America, with lots of creative touches like the old original tourism posters, cheerful music and the colourful small tiles of the kind found in every Mexican market, which adorn many surfaces including the painted bathroom sinks. It’s pretty small, with wooden tables very close together, but the gurgle of the Margarita machine – small complimentary glasses greet you, along with nachos – should cover your neighbours’ conversation. The menu is admirably adventurous, with more than just the usual dishes (though fajitas are abundant too and come with plenty of sides). A starter of chilli rellenos dresses jalapenos in breadcrumbs with cheese, but there’s no disguising the fiery kick of these spicy little numbers which burst sharply in the mouth. A huge peasant-style stew of slow-cooked beef, chicken and bacon is more comforting, with its thick piquant sauce and heap of crusty bread, but it’s a bit hard to get through all of it. The overall impression is of a friendly neighbourhood joint where all involved are keen to make it a special experience.

• High point: Attention to detail in design and atmosphere
• Low point: Portions are too large for most to handle