Wannaburger

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Wannaburger corners the Edinburgh market for grown-up fast food served in an informal setting. The canteen-diner feel of its West End branch appeals to office lunchers and refuelling shoppers; the basic Royal Mile branch captures tourists and passers-by. Under the same ownership as capital stalwarts the Caley Sample Room and the Cambridge Bar, Wannaburger boasts credentials for a professional operation and a reliable patty. If indeed you do wanna bun-enrobed burger, a melange of guises covers all from straight-up to off-the-wall. Accompaniments such as chips, excellent onion rings and coleslaw are extra, so the bill could creep up if you go for a blow-out, but the burgers are big enough on their own, especially if you go for a double four-ouncer. It is reassuring to see the flames from the kitchen, and the beef tastes as good as it should in this form. The 'classic' does the trick, impressive home-made pesto improves the 'Italiano', but the beetroot, fried egg and pineapple combo of the 'Aussie' may be too much for some. The chunky, char-grilled, squeaky haloumi with tapenade and Med veg is an excellent non-meat option. Desserts such as chocolate brownie and baked cheesecake are pretty anodyne, but it's the burgers that are king here.

• High point: Good, solid burgers
• Low point: Pricey side dishes