Bisque Bar & Brasserie

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Bisque Bar & Brasserie of the Bruntsfield Hotel has been reborn following a massive renovation. The smaller bar area at the entrance leads into a very spacious, light and airy restaurant area with an appropriately pale-coloured décor. Breakfast is served all day and the bar menu includes salads, sandwiches and tapas. In the brasserie restaurant, starters include peppered tempura squid, which is light and spicy, the heat offset by a tangy lemon mayonnaise. Black and white pudding is tasty and comes accompanied by a grain mustard dressing. For the less ravenous, the menu lists light mains – none of which is suitable for vegetarians. The more substantial main courses feature a mix of fish and meat dishes. Roast breast of pheasant wrapped in pancetta with sage jus served on a beetroot risotto is a perfectly complementary combination of flavours. Specials change on a daily basis and there is an array of mouth-watering desserts, with the stand-out choice being a creamy dark chocolate torte with apricot and hazelnut salad. In the warmer months enjoy good food in Bisque's impressive outdoor seating area.

• High point: Good food, service and wheelchair access
• Low point: Yearning to sit outside in all weathers