279 Café Bistro

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

During the day, this café offers a selection of reasonably priced ciabattas, sandwiches and home-made pizzas. By night, it turns itself into an elegant bistro offering an equally well-priced but inventive menu. The garlic bruschetta topped with an aubergine caponata comes accompanied by a crisp salad lightly coated in a tangy dressing, while chunky potted pork rillettes come with crunchy cornichons and a generous serving of toasted breads. A tender pan-seared fillet of Angus beef reveals a deliciously pink middle, while cod is done bourguignon-style with al denté French beans and potato fondant. From the dessert menu comes a rich, creamy and silken-textured lemon posset that might have you abandoning all table manners to run your fingers round the glass in search of any last dregs. Some thought and care has gone into the wine list, too; the house white and red – French sauvignon blanc and cabernet-syrah – offer particularly good value. Service is attentive but unobtrusive and the meal is served at a pleasantly relaxed pace.

• High point: Inventive and eclectic menu
• Low point: Bland music on the stereo