Gandolfi Fish

Send us more details about this place.

The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

A fishy sister to the much-loved Café and Bar a few doors down Albion Street, this smartly turned-out member of the Gandolfi family makes great sense. By concentrating almost exclusively on the produce of Scotland's waters, and with a chef in Jamie Donald who really knows his subject (he's a former Scottish Seafood Chef of the Year, no less), Gandolfi Fish consistently offers the best on the market, prepared with assured skill and style. A crisp-skinned fillet of sea bream works well with a classic caper beurre noisette, while a meaty piece of the fashionably ethical choice in white fish, pollack, is matched with a surprisingly gutsy red wine reduction. While the menu changes daily, comforting favourites including fish and chips and fish pie are always present in one form or another. An enterprising wine list includes an admirable 25 choices by the glass, service is as smart as the dark wood and black leather decor, and prices – for raw materials and cooking of this standard – are very reasonable. The lunch and pre-theatre menus, each including a glass of decent wine in the price, are particular bargains.

• High point: Smart décor, service and cooking at accessible prices
• Low point: Little or nothing for vegetarians