Gandolfi Fish

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Gandolfi Fish has only been in business since June 2007, yet curiously feels as if it has been a part of the Merchant City fabric for quite a bit longer. You can attribute its quick integration to owner Seumas MacInnes, who knows the terrain well, given his experience with the Gandolfi flagship just down the street. In less than a year, his fish restaurant has bedded in with its glossy yet comfortable interiors and commissioned art from by Lewis-based Moira Maclean. One unanticipated situation, however, was not being able to use unique suppliers from the Western Isles (such as Barra) from Christmas through into March – when we visit for this guide. That means a 'daily specials' menu (about nine starters and 13 main courses) stands in for the à la carte list, which is more wide-ranging in price and options, be it devilled whitebait, smoked cod roe or barbecued crab with garlic mayo. A starter of anchovy and tomato gallette suffers a bit from its dosing of pesto, while the tempura batter coating pieces of sole is correctly light but quite bland. Main courses might include halibut with braised puy lentils or a pan-fried pollock fillet. A dish of seared scallops presents a half-dozen with the crispy edges achieved by a dusting of flour, atop a couple of thick rasher-like strips of belly pork. With a funky soundtrack and able staff, Gandolfi Fish is often buzzing – as if it has always been there.

• High point: Hum of the dining room
• Low point: Slightly mealy sole