Carlitos

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Carlitos is a brand new venture from Hector Lescano, the entrepreneur behind Rose Street's lively Latin American venue El Barrio. Carlitos' narrow, anonymous-looking Hanover Street entrance gives way to a spacious underground bar-restaurant, which is in keeping with the desired ambience of 1920s Prohibition-era speakeasy. The interior, decked out in neutral creams and dark wood, is a flexible space, with a gated-off function area and quiet nooks for dining, so it works on various levels, providing a haven from Saturday shopping, a quiet bite, or a lively night out. The lunch and evening menus are both based on tapas/starters with a handful of mains thrown in for good measure. There are several reasonably-priced options, with highlights including a strongly-flavoured Spanish chorizo cooked in Rioja, fresh calamari sautéed in olive oil without being too greasy, and crispy aubergine fritters. Desserts include a refreshing mojito sorbet and rich, dark chocolate mousse. Budget diners or those seeking a light bite are pointed firmly in the direction of Carlitos' selection of tostados, which include chorizo, cured ham and manchego cheese, and roasted red pepper fillings, and are served from midday until closing time.

• High point: Decent portions
• Low point: Finding the right door