Enjoy

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The pavements of the Great Western Road see more striders than strollers. So competing cafés often need something extra to get bums on seats. For Enjoy, the selling point is the real food ethos of its Kosovan owners, Sebo and Manuella Brestovca. There is little about the café's design to suggest how good the food really is. The décor is perfectly fine, with ample space for leather sofas and bucket armchairs around mostly low tables. Ikea-style art hangs on mocha walls and world music plays gently. So it's a pleasant surprise when the confidently presented food approaches restaurant quality. The Kosovan chicken and mushroom goulash is a creamy delight, marrying full yet subtle flavours with fluffy rice. The vegetable lasagne is melt-in-the mouth and vegetarians are generally well catered for with soups, wraps and salads across an eclectic menu on which the common denominators are freshness and quality. Coffee is supplied by Matthew Algie and some rather amazing home-made cakes – try the blueberry and cream cheese – are bought in from a secret source. Smoothies, however, are made on site: one called 'raspberry heaven' is, well, raspberry heaven. Open seven days until 11pm, Enjoy deserves all the new fans it can get.

• High point: Quality food with fresh twists
• Low point: Undersold by standard café décor