Angels Bar & Diner

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Angels may be the most popular restaurant in Lanarkshire, judging by the amazing speed with which tables fill up - even early week. It's a venture which aims to take what was once straightforward pub food to a more ambitious level. In a smart, contemporary bar setting adapted to restaurant use, diners are offered a recital of eternal pub classics, such as haddock and chips and steak pie, but the kitchen ups the ante with options that include chicken fajitas - the toasted but tender pieces set off splendidly by fresh tortillas, peppers and dips. A main of roast chicken and bacon is served with a huge pile of carrots, runner beans and roast potatoes, set off with a gravy that is rich but doesn't mask any of the natural flavours. Celtic FC legend Harry Hood (who launched the original enterprise, though it's now run by his family) is sometimes to be seen bringing the odd plate to a table and having a chat with customers. The house policy is generally 'big portions' - better a little too much than not enough, they reckon - but, if you want to enjoy them, booking really is essential, at practically any time.

• High point: Sterling service no matter how busy
• Low point: Portions leave no room for dessert