Abstract

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It's important to set aside an entire evening for a visit to Abstract: a quick bite before curtain up at one of the nearby theatres would be doing it a great injustice. There's just so much vying for your attention here, from the mirrored pillars and snakeskin-print upholstery to the competing musical accompaniments (live piano in the bar overlaps with the selection of chansons playing in the restaurant). You'll also need time to consider fully the 25-page list of wines from around the world. The air of lavishness extends to the regularly changing food menu, the selection demonstrating some real creative flair. Most combinations are compelling, but some of the dishes contain so many ingredients they're a little difficult to decipher. This is exemplified by the starters: the assiette of duck four ways is beautifully offset by a sweet quince and liquorice purée, but West Coast scallops are somewhat overwhelmed by salty pressed chicken wings. Of the mains, roast calf's liver is a particular highlight, the soft meat complemented by a crunchy onion tarte tatin, while tender roast lamb comes with a light basil macaroni and bolognese sauce. End the meal in style with the perfectly cooked hot pistachio soufflé served with a rich griotte cherry sorbet, before repairing with coffee or a digestif to the ostentatious piano bar.

• High point: The perfectly cooked soufflé
• Low point: The competing musical accompaniments

The LIST Card C12

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