Dolce e Salato

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses: £3.30

• High point: A slice of Napoli in the heart of Dalry
• Low point: Slightly dodgy décor
• Food served: Mon-Sat 8am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm
• Open since: 2007
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Take away

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Goethe once said that a man who has seen Naples can never be sad. Dolce e Salato, Rosario and Maria Sartore's new Pasticceria e Rosticceria in Dalry, transports each of its visitors to a very happy corner of Naples and invites them to linger over a coffee or glass of wine for as long as they wish. The sweet and savory café opened in early 2007, but already feels as if it has been a staple in the community for years. The décor offers an eclectic (and slightly odd) mish-mash of Italian goodies displayed in 1980s-era built-in wall units, modern and antique furnishings and two confectionery cases imported from Italy. With the savoury occupying the smaller of the two cases, the emphasis here is heavier on the dolce than salato. On the savoury side, pizza is unsurprisingly featured in various forms - fried and filled with ricotta and spinach or ricotta and ham, or topped with sautéed endive, garlic, black olives and pine nuts. Panino Napoletano is a delicious spiral of airy bread filled with pieces of ham, salami, boiled egg, provolone cheese and ground black pepper. And, at £1.45, it is very good value. The fantastic range of typically Neapolitan cakes, pastries and sweets can feel overwhelming, but try the popular mimosa - cubed sponge cake piled atop lemon chantilly cream - or pastiera Napoletana - a light cake of ricotta, lemon and hazelnuts - and you certainly won't go wrong.