The 78

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Named after 78rpm vinyl records (a pile of which sit next to an antique gramophone), the 78 is several miles away from its previous incarnation as the grungy indie hangout Stereo. Bright and airy but still intimate, the café bar's relaxed atmosphere extends to a real fire, sofa and armchairs, as well as wooden tables and benches for diners. Dishes on the imaginative menu that uses no animal products arrive fresh and in substantial portions. A starter of smoky potato and lentil soup is as tasty as it is unusual. Its textured, comforting warmth contrasts with the fiery chilli dipping sauce that accompanies Thai-spiced potato cakes with crunchy coating around dense vegetable chunks. A main course of baked vegetarian haggis sees the dish reinvented, full of kidney beans, mushrooms, carrots and garlic – served with mash that's topped by fried leeks. Among the desserts is a dark chocolate torte with the texture of rich fondant, married successfully to a smooth and sugary scoop of dairy-free mocha ice-cream. A range of organic beers is available and there are also themed nights such as dub'n'grub every Thursday.

• High point: Innovative menu
• Low point: Toilets need a makeover