Grant MacNicol at Harvey McGuire's

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Ambitious young chef-proprietor Grant MacNicol is performing a delicate balancing act: foodie indulgence on a menu that won't alienate your granny. The 24-year-old was head chef at AA-rosetted Dornoch Castle restaurant for four years but wanted to launch his own venture from a more homely setting. He reopened the well-known Harvey McGuire's in the tiny Fife village of Pitscottie in February, where neat lines of solid wooden tables and weekend throngs of pensioners initially give the impression of a functional tearoom. The ten-ingredient steak burger, however, is a statement of intent: a pub grub staple turned into a densely meaty treat by mixing in pancetta, chorizo and black pudding. A similarly filling steak and Guinness pie has tender meat – having been braised for four hours – and chunky Applewood cheddar chips. The puddings induce “ahs” of nostalgic recognition and “ohs” of curiosity: chocolate bread and butter pudding with unctuous Caramac crème anglaise; cranachan crème brûlée with plump, tart raspberries hidden deep underneath its brittle, sugary surface. At the time of our visit, MacNicol was planning to show off his fine-dining skills with a weekend £32.50 seven-course tasting menu in a small separate room.

• High point: Playful puddings
• Low point: Characterless overspill dining space