Lake of Menteith Hotel & Waterfront Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Feeling like a remote country retreat, the Lake of Menteith Hotel lies less than an hour from the centre of Glasgow and offers its diners not only good food, but one of Central Scotland's more impressive dining-room outlooks. Views through bullrushes across Scotland's only lake through ethereal mists to the mysterious island of Inchmahome give diners a memorable backdrop against which to enjoy the elegant menu. Chef Michael Hobbins' creations are formed from fresh Scottish produce and are perhaps best exemplified by a starter of Ayrshire pork served three ways, including a square of beautifully tender slow cooked belly. Similarly well executed is a main of rack of Dornie hill lamb, sitting on top of a rich, wine-soaked meaty stew that is so flavourful it makes the accompanying mash appear rather dull. A boned and rolled pan-roasted poissin is accompanied by a light lemon and thyme mousse and a piquant wild turnip and pepperberry jus. Standards are kept up with a delicate dessert of feather-light citrus meringue pie served with creamy mascarpone ice-cream. Those feeling flush can splash out on rare whiskies from the hotel's impressive malt vault.

• High point: Wonderful setting
• Low point: Bits of grit in the scallop