The Glasshouse at Eskmills

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It may be out of town, but there's nothing country bumpkinish about this stylish venue. The grey stone quadrangle of restored former mill buildings at Eskbank makes a sober counterpoise to the airy modernity of the Glasshouse. In the daytime, the courtyard, with its pool and gentling rippling water, makes an agreeable setting for a coffee, a drink or lunch, while, after dark, atmospheric lighting shimmers on water, glass and steel. Appetising modern dishes are described with refreshing simplicity and presented with exemplary flair. All this does mean that there's a lot to live up to by the time you sink your fork into a starter of tiger prawn and crab with lime and coriander, or smoked duck with beetroot and goat's cheese salad. Flavours come through better in hot mains, such as a perfectly pink and tender roasted lamb rump with boulangère potatoes, or moist free-range chicken with wild mushroom gnocchi, both substantial enough alone, though side orders of vegetables and salads are imaginative and pleasingly seasonal. Puddings again sound tempting, but the spiced plum and apple crumble lacks crunch, and the lemon and pepper ice-cream is icy rather than silky. A pity, when wine list, service and setting are all spot on.

• High point: Dramatic dining space…
• Low point: …writes a cheque the cooking doesn't cash