Bijou

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

At the corner of Restalrig Road, across from Leith Links, guests of Bijou can dine in a small, white sitting room cheerfully decorated with green plants and gold mirrors. The lunch and dinner menu celebrates Scottish cuisine and all dishes come in 'bijou', 'medium' and 'main' sizes. A home-made fish-cake has a crisp, golden exterior with chunks of salmon and potato inside. Beneath the Cullen skink's crumbly cheddar topping lie chunks of bright green cabbage and tender haddock swimming in a pale yellow cream. On the spicier side, two large peppery Crombie's sausages arrive on a bed of salty mash drizzled with sweet onion jus. The roasted butternut squash and sage risotto, which is dense and firm, arrives with a dusting of crushed pine nuts on top. For dessert, the cranachan is a decadent mix of raspberries and cream, while the hefty chocolate brownie with caramel sauce comes with a ball of vanilla ice-cream. Despite the heavy lunchtime rush and the narrow space between tables, staff are remarkably quick and attentive. A scrumptious breakfast menu is also available, as well as sandwiches and rolls for takeaway. With its solid, traditional food and bright, cosy interior, this suburban bistro is definitely a hidden gem.

• High point: The varied portion sizes
• Low point: Coffee cup handles are too small