Plumed Horse

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

A year or so after upping sticks from Dumfriesshire and trotting off to this unprepossessing Leith corner – surrendering its Michelin star on the way – there are signs that the Plumed Horse's teething problems have been tempered. Subtle refinements continue to improve the tranquil dining area, which, in conservative cream, green and yellow tones, feels rather like the lounge of a wealthy aunt's New Town abode. Formal yet friendly, the industrious staff encourage you to feel at ease as they sweep by with fresh rolls and amuse-bouche, such as a wickedly buttery langoustine bisque. To begin, twice-baked Loch Arthur cheddar soufflé with spinach custard and sauce soubise is wonderfully light and representative of Tony Borthwick's talent for merging superior Scottish produce and classic French principles. Though a little modest in size, roast rack of lamb enjoys the company of its braised neck fillet, polenta, kale and shallot chaperones. Ordering a kebab in a restaurant with a Michelin-lauded chef at the helm seems an unlikely scenario, but here fresh chunks of warm ripe fruit straddle a tangy winter-spiced griotte cherry soup. Judgement is reserved on whether the Plumed Horse will find enough form to attract a third star to Leith's shores, but with innovative dishes, skilfully prepared and artistically presented, it remains a welcome element of Edinburgh's fine-dining circuit.

• High point: Food and furnishings far classier than the location suggests
• Low point: Spontaneous vegetarians beware – advance notice is required