Visit La Garrigue, arguably the most authentic French restaurant in town and be transported into the Languedoc region of France. Enjoy the food, sample the 'Terroir wines' and the warm service. Winner 'Les Routiers Guide; Scottish restaurant of the year'.

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £17.50 (set lunch)
   £31 (set dinner) (evening meal)
• House wine: £17 per bottle

• High point: Knowledge, skill and culinary adventure . . .
• Low point: . . . in pedestrian surroundings
• Food served: Tue-Sat noon-2pm, 7-9pm. Closed Sun/Mon.
• Private dining: Up to 10 covers
• Open since: 2006
• Also offers: Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Chef Tony Borthwick had barely turned on his cooker in this new venture in Leith when he was beset by heavyweight critical judgement. Intense interest and high expectations were stoked by Borthwick's rare status as a Michelin-starred chef and the fact that he gave up the much-coveted culinary trophy in order to relocate from Dumfriesshire to the sometimes ruthless Edinburgh scene. Frying pans and fires come to mind as the new Plumed Horse took it first faltering steps in relatively unprepossessing surroundings yet amid the full glare of media attention. A few months in, however, and there's evidence of the team and new menu (including restructured prices) bedding in. The cooking, as befits one of Scotland's top chefs, certainly has its fans. A tricky twice-baked cheese soufflé is moist and airy, arranged on a bed of sweet slow-baked shallots, while a 'lasagne' of chicken and fois gras is a stunning mélange of complex flavours immersed in a loaded spring mushroom stock so fresh and heady it tastes almost alcoholic. From the mains, perfectly poached monkfish cheeks and meaty sautéed langoustines are accompanied by an athletic Chateauneuf du Pape sauce that brings a fruity, aromatic kick to the succulent sweet fish. Desserts are equally creative, and the wine list is broad and nicely priced. The dining room décor still feels a tad underpowered, but, at £31 for two courses (£38 for three), a few more punters will fancy a flutter for the chance of some culinary adventure and spirit.