Reds

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Located one street away from the Portobello seafront, Reds is that most enlightened of places: a café that positively welcomes children. Varnished wood, subtle shades of oatmeal and coffee, and leather sofas, create a comfy haven after a blustery beach walk, and, with a buggy park and high chairs, you can eat well while your little darlings either join you or entertain themselves in the soft play area, which is visible from every seat in the café via close circuit TV. All the staples are on offer here: nachos, jacket spuds, salads and every flavour of sandwich (all available in mini portions on the children’s menu), and with meat sourced from Pentland Produce and the fruit and veg from the grocer up the road, there's an encouraging local bent to the place. The burgers are lean and tender, while the Cullen skink is thick with smoky fish and new potatoes. A side order of thick, hand-cut chips is unmissable. For afters, moist carrot cake with just a hint of ginger really hits the spot, and if you want to feel like you’ve died and gone to heaven, indulge in sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce. Month by month and for special occasions, the chef, Iain Smith, stretches his legs with a more sophisticated evening menu, but phone ahead to check availability. Everything is well thought through at Reds, and you simply don’t have to compromise on quality because you have children.

• High point: Proper thick-cut chips
• Low point: A no-no if you’re allergic to kids