Xanadu

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It is doubtful that Coleridge's stately pleasure-dome in Xanadu featured polystyrene ceiling tiles such as those found here. If, however, it had served Peking duck so succulent, with skin so sweet and crisp, then perhaps he would have forsaken the laudanum and proclaimed this the milk of paradise. The duck (£15.80 for a half) must be ordered 24 hours in advance, but is undoubtedly worth the effort. Indeed, while the menu features all the classic favourites, you would do well to trust to owner Irene Chiu's choices from the more unusual specialties produced by her husband (head chef Peter). Deep-fried fish fillet with pears, pine seeds and sweet and sour sauce is one such inspired combination, the ripe pear harmonising with the very well balanced sauce (containing no MSG or colouring) and the toasted pine seeds providing textural contrast. Opened late in 2006, Xanadu has built up a band of local regulars, but regrettably has yet to receive the recognition it deserves from further afield. It may be out of the way, the exterior may be unprepossessing and the interior, due to budget restrictions, can't quite match the quality of the food, but this is a genuine find and deserving of wider support.

• High point: High quality cooking and original specialties
• Low point: Out of the way location