Heart Buchanan

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Already a firm local favourite for eight years, Heart Buchanan is better known for its delicious deli delights. Since 2005 though, there’s been an eponymous café next door where the deli devotees may be a little disappointed to find their desired dishes lacking on the menu (understandable of course: re-heats don’t appeal anywhere, no matter the quality). What is available is home-made soup, which could be carrot, chilli and coriander or ham and yellow split pea, served with super-light herby focaccia. There’s no menu to hand, as the plates can change daily, but a quick perusal of the blackboard will tell you what’s on offer are toasties and sandwiches served with crisps and some rocket: the chorizo with (not very) spicy pepper and mozzarella may not excite everyone but it does have that ‘freshly-made’ taste found in the best delis. The tuna with cucumber and a lemon and herb mayonnaise has more personality and a satisfying combination of flavours. Home-made baking is tempting, but even more irresistible is the breakfast(served till 4pm at weekends), a dangerously wonderful selection of everything from porridge and pastries to eggs benedict (or royale with smoked salmon) and a full French farmhouse breakfast.

• High point: Lots of style, with dishes served on wooden boards
• Low point: Teeny tiny