Stac Polly

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

For visitors to Edinburgh the Stac Polly restaurants are probably the most conspicuously 'Scottish' in town. Nonetheless, the newest of the city's three branches, in St Mary's Street, is more restrained in its approach. Muted tartans complement historical and more contemporary prints on the walls, and the ambiance is relaxed and informal. The menu is described as 'modern Scottish with a twist' and contains competently prepared variations on traditional fare. Starters include the signature haggis filo pastry parcels with sweet plum sauce and a clever combination of monkfish with Ayrshire ham, lime and saffron. Mains sound complicated but are competently prepared. Noisette of Borders lamb is perfectly cooked and sits well alongside a squash and cumin mash. Tuna is char-grilled and accompanied by a fragrant honey and soy sauce. Desserts do not always match the standards of the preceding courses, but you cannot go wrong with the good selection of Scottish cheeses. There is little on the menu for vegetarians, but visitors are invited to ask staff for available options. A similar menu is available at both the New Town branch on Dublin Street and the Stac Polly on Grindlay Street by the Lyceum Theatre.

• High point: Haggis filo pastry parcels
• Low point: Poor selection of wine