Stac Polly Bistro

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

More casual than her New Town sister, the Bistro is bright and airy, with 1790s caricatures of Edinburgh worthies as well as some architectural black and white photos of Edinburgh decorating the walls. The rear dining room has a high shelf of elegant metal vases containing calla lilies. While the menu shares some of the New Town dishes, others are presented differently. The breadcrumbed haggis bonbons are more like gobstoppers, but go surprisingly well with plum and coriander chutney. Red pepper and tomato soup is enlivened with just enough ginger. Sprigs of thyme in the jus threaten to dominate the main course lamb, but don’t. The breaded salmon sits atop fluffy potatoes which are scented rather than flavoured with dill and the accompanying curry sauce is mild and creamy. The fine beans served with both dishes are portions of veg rather than a garnish. Cranachan is layered in a glass like a sundae and is generous enough to share. Clootie dumpling is warm with sweet spices, but a bit low on the fruit. The vanilla egg custard is delicious.

• High point: Unfussy and relaxed
• Low point: The toilets are a bit cramped