One

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• Average price 2 courses:
   £12.50 (set lunch)
   £23 (evening meal)
• House wine: £14.75 per bottle

• High point: Beautifully prepared and presented vegetables
• Low point: Some tables too close together
• Food served: Mon-Sat 5.30-10.30pm; Sun 5-10pm
• Bar open: Mon-Sun 9am-midnight
• Private dining: Up to 50 covers
• No. overnight rooms: 283
• Open since: 1981
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Near the SECC in the cavernous atrium of Glasgow's largest conference hotel, the Crowne Plaza, the former Mariner restaurant has been renamed One after a major refit, with a new contemporary take on the nautical theme. Gone is the tartan carpet but, thankfully, the extraordinary mural dedicated to the past glory of ship building on the Clyde remains. Beyond the large sloping windows, the river itself runs past, helping create the illusion that diners are on an ocean liner gently heading out to sea. A busy buffet carvery serves two different roast meats such as beef or lamb, a selection of steamed vegetables and salads and desserts, making a popular set price option. The à la carte menu is Scottish with the odd French twist. Warm black pudding is served on a crisp, caramelised apple slice - a rather dry starter compared with the moist crab-cakes; the soft, flaky crab meat covered in crisp bread crumbs with chive mayonnaise. A Lanarkshire rack of lamb is tender and pink, cooked with a crust of Dijon mustard, and gently infused with sweet Madeira, redcurrant and rosemary and served with minted potatoes. Service is fast, while the neighbouring bar is ideal for a post-dinner coffee or liqueur.