OKO Express

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This sushi bar and Japanese grill redefines the post-pub/club fish supper when it reels in the beer-goggled during one of its late late opening nights. The bright red walls and semi-communal benches of a compact but surprisingly spacious dining area have only been seen by some through hazy eyes at 4am. But it's worth visiting at more traditionally sober hours – and not only to witness the sushi chef at work. Having a clear head can also be an advantage when combining dishes from the hot and cold menus, which offer no distinct indication of starters, sides or mains. (The easiest pointer of portion size is probably the price of dishes.) The chilled options showcase sushi – whether nigiri, maki, gunkan or inside-out varieties, including vegetarian choices. A cone-shaped temaki roll with fresh crab and avocado is a suitable starter before a more substantial noodle, fried rice or grilled dish. Pork hisses on a sizzler, its ginger and garlic marinade sweetened by a buttery peanut sauce. Char-grilled salmon is smoky and flaky; the accompanying (though not particularly Japanese) mashed potatoes soaking up the teriyaki sauce. For dessert, a creamy Italian ice-cream made delicate with green tea essence is worth the cross-cultural experiment.

• High point: Warm and welcoming staff
• Low point: Spicy chicken tempura almost a goujon