Ashoka at the Quay

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Formerly Masala Jak's, this restaurant has taken on the basic branding of the Harlequin Group in the past year or so. The venue has modern décor with an open kitchen and wooden tables, and the opportunity to dine overlooking the Clyde. The competitively priced and compact menu includes much 'traditional' Indian fare with starters such as pakoras or samosas. Among the more unorthodox offerings, massala potato wedges can be sampled in the 'massala combo' for two, which also includes chicken chaat – succulent drumsticks coated in a tangy sweet and sour sauce. Main courses feature familiar kormas, bhoonas and chasnis, as well as some less common desi-style dishes in which tender pieces of meat on the bone are served in a richly spiced sauce. Tandoori chicken (from the barbecue selection) arrives at the table on a hot plate in a sizzling fanfare – accompanied by a curry sauce, rice and salad. Situated at the Springfield Quay leisure complex, this Ashoka slots in among the typical roll-call of multinational/corporate chain restaurants, giving it a slightly generic feel. Still, at least it's locally owned and its presence offers a culinary alternative to burgers or cheesy pasta.

• High point: Change from usual chains…
• Low point: …but still a chain